Let's make a Mikov

[eastcoastsniper]

I've been asked to do a tutorial on how I wrangle a working switchblade out of a mikov kit. Over the next week or so, I'll be posting a knife in the making with pic's and explanations. this will be a thread that will be saved and looked at in the future by new members, so, please ask any questions you may have, or offer your input as we progress. For simplicities sake, I'm making a cocobolo scaled knife. This is an older kit and only has one spring. the newer kits have two. (we'll discuss that later) Also, I don't like the pins that come with the Mikov kits, I prefer brass and have modified this kit to accept my pins. The process remains essentially the same as originally designed.

Let's start....

First, Find a set of scales that are at least 1 1/4" x 4 1/4" and 3/8" thick. Anything larger is fine, but the bigger they are, the more sanding you'll need to do. no big deal, because this is a fun project, and the more time spent, the better

Member "Springmesser' suggested the cocoblo scales, so off we go.
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You'll want to make sure the scale material is perfectly flat. Mark with pencil which side will face the liner so there is no confusion later.
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Here are the ingredients. (I switched the nickle pins for my brass pins)
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Let's make a mark on the liner side of the top scale. This is where we need to recess the scale to slip over the spring. I trace around a flat file about 2 1/2" down the scale.
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I'm going to be using a dremel router bit and carbide cutting tool to make the channel. I use a drill press to do this. Go slowly and let the bits do the work. A drill press is designed for downward pressure, not sideways! If you don't have a drill press, use a dremel and take your time.
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Here's what you want the underside of the top scale to look like. Go just deep enough to house the spring. About 1/8 inch should be fine.
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set the scale on the liner and make sure it seats properly over the spring with no binding or gaps.
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Next, turn the top scale over and measure down 3/4" from the top. We'll be taking this material out with the carbide cutting bit. This needs to come out so the spring can properly rise and activate the blade.
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And here's what it should look like.
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I'll stop here for today. Please ask any questions or offer your input.

[justinRsmith]

i thank you very much for posting this sniper, this will be very helpful in the future.
thanks again,
-Justin

[eastcoastsniper]

Sure thing Justin,

when will you be making one?

[justinRsmith]

Sure thing Justin,

when will you be making one?

after i finish my current project, and once i have the money

[Jeff]

I like the choice of cocobolo as well. My personal favorite. Nice job Roger! It looks like you calculated lever play area nicely!

[eastcoastsniper]

I like the choice of cocobolo as well. My personal favorite. Nice job Roger! It looks like you calculated lever play area nicely!

Thanks Jeff, If you look closely at the top of the spring, there is a dimple that goes across it. you want to get the material just below that line. and make sure there is enough clearance in the channel for the spring to rise unobstructed.

[Springmesser]

Excellent Mikov tutorial.
Where do I get the brass pins?

[eastcoastsniper]

Excellent Mikov tutorial.
Where do I get the brass pins?

These pins came from a leverletto kit. I have leftover pins because I used torx screws on the leverletto.

These required modification to the scales.I think they are size .072" and almost impossible to find.

for the Mikov, you can also use #18 escutcheon pins available at any hardware store. They are about ar thick as the pins that come with the mikov kit. They are a little longer also.



These can be used with no modification to the liners.

the spring pins are just plain 3/32 brass rod and can be found at online retailers like here:

http://www.texasknife.com/vcom/index.php?cPath=35

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[Springmesser]

Thanks ECS.

[eastcoastsniper]

Let's continue......

Clamp the scale tightly onto the liner. Make sure it is exactly where you want it
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Check to make sure it's flush against the top bolster
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We're going to be drilling the holes for the scale and spring pins. This shows what size bits to use. Pay no attention to the hole in the middle. The liners are universal and that hole is used for the lever pin on the top liner.
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After drilling each hole, place a pin in it from the underside to help keep it in the right position. I put masking tape on the pins to keep them from sliding through the holes while I'm working on the scales.
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Next, it's a trip to the belt sander. Sand around the edges as close as you can to the liner.
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It should look like this..
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Here's where we are now...
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Now, Back to the belt sander and sand the top part of the scales flat to a thickness of about 3/8"
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Go over the scales with some medium steel wool to smooth them out a bit.
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Now, look at the overlap on the top bolsters.
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Mark the overlap with a pencil and sand smooth on the belt sander.
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Sand the scales smooth with 500 grit sand paper. They're starting to look pretty good!
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Now, mark a small circle a little off center of the firing lever.
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This area needs to be recessed so the lever sits a little into the scales and it makes it easier to get your thumb under the lever.
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Back to the drill press. you can use the router attachment or the carbide cutter to slowly make a beveled recess.
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This is what it should look like.
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Now, sand the recessed area with medium steel wool, then 500 grit sandpaper. Here's what it should look like now..
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Now it's time to spend a little quality time with your scales. Sand them with graduating grits of 3m polishing cloth's. Start with 600, then 1200, 2000, 4000. Make sure to wipe clean in between grits. Add a couple coats of minwax sealer and we'll see what it looks like tomorrow.

You can get the 3m sheets here...
http://www.texasknife.com/vcom/index.php?cPath=225_520

Please ask any questions you have ...See you tomorrow

[butch]

nice work on the tutorial sniper one step I do after applying the minwax sealer is buff lightly with #0000 steel wool,not a neccessity just gives it a glass smooth finish.

[big_ski]

Good work there, guy! Yep, those scales should not shift when drilling the pin holes.

[Springmesser]

How do you make the channel cuts on your drill press...do you raise and lower the table to get the cutting depth?

[eastcoastsniper]

I hold the wheel steady and in position with my right hand and move the scale with my left hand. As long as you go slowly and only take off 1/16 of an inch or so at a time, the scale will stay put. By doing it this way, you can also move the wheel up and down for your bevel cuts.

[Springmesser]

I hold the wheel steady and in position with my right hand and move the scale with my left hand. As long as you go slowly and only take off 1/16 of an inch or so at a time, the scale will stay put. By doing it this way, you can also move the wheel up and down for your bevel cuts.

I don't know about one handing it for a first time builder?