Let's make a Mikov

This is a forum for discussion on automatic an switchblade knives.

Moderators: Vagrant, The Motley Crew

Forum rules
There are a few things you should know before posting in these forums. If you are a new user, please click here and read carefully. Thanks a lot!
User avatar
eastcoastsniper
Posts: 932
Joined: Mon Aug 25, 2008 7:34 pm
Location: You can run, but, you'll just die tired

Let's make a Mikov

Postby eastcoastsniper » Mon Mar 23, 2009 11:51 pm

I've been asked to do a tutorial on how I wrangle a working switchblade out of a mikov kit. Over the next week or so, I'll be posting a knife in the making with pic's and explanations. this will be a thread that will be saved and looked at in the future by new members, so, please ask any questions you may have, or offer your input as we progress. For simplicities sake, I'm making a cocobolo scaled knife. This is an older kit and only has one spring. the newer kits have two. (we'll discuss that later) Also, I don't like the pins that come with the Mikov kits, I prefer brass and have modified this kit to accept my pins. The process remains essentially the same as originally designed.

Let's start....

First, Find a set of scales that are at least 1 1/4" x 4 1/4" and 3/8" thick. Anything larger is fine, but the bigger they are, the more sanding you'll need to do. no big deal, because this is a fun project, and the more time spent, the better :)

Member "Springmesser' suggested the cocoblo scales, so off we go.
.
Image
.
You'll want to make sure the scale material is perfectly flat. Mark with pencil which side will face the liner so there is no confusion later.
.
Here are the ingredients. (I switched the nickle pins for my brass pins)
.
Image
.
Let's make a mark on the liner side of the top scale. This is where we need to recess the scale to slip over the spring. I trace around a flat file about 2 1/2" down the scale.
.
Image
.
I'm going to be using a dremel router bit and carbide cutting tool to make the channel. I use a drill press to do this. Go slowly and let the bits do the work. A drill press is designed for downward pressure, not sideways! If you don't have a drill press, use a dremel and take your time.
.
Image
.
Here's what you want the underside of the top scale to look like. Go just deep enough to house the spring. About 1/8 inch should be fine.
.
Image
.
set the scale on the liner and make sure it seats properly over the spring with no binding or gaps.
.
Image
.
Next, turn the top scale over and measure down 3/4" from the top. We'll be taking this material out with the carbide cutting bit. This needs to come out so the spring can properly rise and activate the blade.
.
Image
.
And here's what it should look like.
.
Image
.
Image
.
Image

I'll stop here for today. Please ask any questions or offer your input.
Last edited by eastcoastsniper on Tue Mar 24, 2009 12:55 am, edited 1 time in total.

User avatar
justinRsmith
Posts: 479
Joined: Tue Dec 09, 2008 9:44 pm
Location: US

Re: Let's make a Mikov

Postby justinRsmith » Mon Mar 23, 2009 11:55 pm

i thank you very much for posting this sniper, this will be very helpful in the future.
thanks again,
-Justin
"I'll keep my money and guns & you keep the change"

User avatar
eastcoastsniper
Posts: 932
Joined: Mon Aug 25, 2008 7:34 pm
Location: You can run, but, you'll just die tired

Re: Let's make a Mikov

Postby eastcoastsniper » Mon Mar 23, 2009 11:57 pm

Sure thing Justin,

when will you be making one? :wink:

User avatar
justinRsmith
Posts: 479
Joined: Tue Dec 09, 2008 9:44 pm
Location: US

Re: Let's make a Mikov

Postby justinRsmith » Mon Mar 23, 2009 11:58 pm

eastcoastsniper wrote:Sure thing Justin,

when will you be making one? :wink:

after i finish my current project, and once i have the money :P
"I'll keep my money and guns & you keep the change"

User avatar
Jeff
Posts: 1864
Joined: Sun Mar 08, 2009 3:52 am
Location: Ca

Re: Let's make a Mikov

Postby Jeff » Tue Mar 24, 2009 12:03 am

I like the choice of cocobolo as well. My personal favorite. Nice job Roger! :D It looks like you calculated lever play area nicely!
Leverlock switchblades

User avatar
eastcoastsniper
Posts: 932
Joined: Mon Aug 25, 2008 7:34 pm
Location: You can run, but, you'll just die tired

Re: Let's make a Mikov

Postby eastcoastsniper » Tue Mar 24, 2009 12:11 am

Jeff_75 wrote:I like the choice of cocobolo as well. My personal favorite. Nice job Roger! :D It looks like you calculated lever play area nicely!


Thanks Jeff, If you look closely at the top of the spring, there is a dimple that goes across it. you want to get the material just below that line. and make sure there is enough clearance in the channel for the spring to rise unobstructed.

User avatar
Springmesser
Posts: 747
Joined: Mon May 12, 2008 5:21 am

Re: Let's make a Mikov

Postby Springmesser » Tue Mar 24, 2009 5:57 am

Excellent Mikov tutorial. :)
Where do I get the brass pins?

User avatar
eastcoastsniper
Posts: 932
Joined: Mon Aug 25, 2008 7:34 pm
Location: You can run, but, you'll just die tired

Re: Let's make a Mikov

Postby eastcoastsniper » Tue Mar 24, 2009 12:37 pm

Springmesser wrote:Excellent Mikov tutorial. :)
Where do I get the brass pins?


These pins came from a leverletto kit. I have leftover pins because I used torx screws on the leverletto.

These required modification to the scales.I think they are size .072" and almost impossible to find.

for the Mikov, you can also use #18 escutcheon pins available at any hardware store. They are about ar thick as the pins that come with the mikov kit. They are a little longer also.

Image

These can be used with no modification to the liners.

the spring pins are just plain 3/32 brass rod and can be found at online retailers like here:

http://www.texasknife.com/vcom/index.php?cPath=35

.

User avatar
Springmesser
Posts: 747
Joined: Mon May 12, 2008 5:21 am

Re: Let's make a Mikov

Postby Springmesser » Tue Mar 24, 2009 4:42 pm

Thanks ECS. :)

User avatar
eastcoastsniper
Posts: 932
Joined: Mon Aug 25, 2008 7:34 pm
Location: You can run, but, you'll just die tired

Re: Let's make a Mikov

Postby eastcoastsniper » Tue Mar 24, 2009 6:09 pm

Let's continue......

Clamp the scale tightly onto the liner. Make sure it is exactly where you want it
.
Image
.
Check to make sure it's flush against the top bolster
.
Image
.
We're going to be drilling the holes for the scale and spring pins. This shows what size bits to use. Pay no attention to the hole in the middle. The liners are universal and that hole is used for the lever pin on the top liner.
.
Image
.
After drilling each hole, place a pin in it from the underside to help keep it in the right position. I put masking tape on the pins to keep them from sliding through the holes while I'm working on the scales.
.
Image
.
Image
.
Next, it's a trip to the belt sander. Sand around the edges as close as you can to the liner.
.
Image
.
It should look like this..
.
Image
.
Image
.
Here's where we are now...
.
Image
.
Now, Back to the belt sander and sand the top part of the scales flat to a thickness of about 3/8"
.
Image
.
Go over the scales with some medium steel wool to smooth them out a bit.
.
Image
.
Now, look at the overlap on the top bolsters.
.
Image
.
Mark the overlap with a pencil and sand smooth on the belt sander.
.
Image
.
Sand the scales smooth with 500 grit sand paper. They're starting to look pretty good!
.
Image
.
Now, mark a small circle a little off center of the firing lever.
.
Image
.
This area needs to be recessed so the lever sits a little into the scales and it makes it easier to get your thumb under the lever.
.
Image
.
Back to the drill press. you can use the router attachment or the carbide cutter to slowly make a beveled recess.
.
Image
.
This is what it should look like.
.
Image
.
Now, sand the recessed area with medium steel wool, then 500 grit sandpaper. Here's what it should look like now..
.
Image
.
Now it's time to spend a little quality time with your scales. Sand them with graduating grits of 3m polishing cloth's. Start with 600, then 1200, 2000, 4000. Make sure to wipe clean in between grits. Add a couple coats of minwax sealer and we'll see what it looks like tomorrow.

You can get the 3m sheets here...
http://www.texasknife.com/vcom/index.php?cPath=225_520

Please ask any questions you have ...See you tomorrow :) :wink:
Last edited by eastcoastsniper on Tue Nov 24, 2009 12:42 am, edited 2 times in total.

User avatar
butch
Posts: 3995
Joined: Thu Sep 25, 2003 5:00 pm
Location: Pennsylvannia
Contact:

Re: Let's make a Mikov

Postby butch » Tue Mar 24, 2009 6:27 pm

nice work on the tutorial sniper 8) one step I do after applying the minwax sealer is buff lightly with #0000 steel wool,not a neccessity just gives it a glass smooth finish.
Image

User avatar
big_ski
Posts: 105
Joined: Fri Apr 08, 2005 10:08 pm
Location: MN

Re: Let's make a Mikov

Postby big_ski » Tue Mar 24, 2009 11:27 pm

Good work there, guy! Yep, those scales should not shift when drilling the pin holes.

User avatar
Springmesser
Posts: 747
Joined: Mon May 12, 2008 5:21 am

Re: Let's make a Mikov

Postby Springmesser » Tue Mar 24, 2009 11:43 pm

How do you make the channel cuts on your drill press...do you raise and lower the table to get the cutting depth?

User avatar
eastcoastsniper
Posts: 932
Joined: Mon Aug 25, 2008 7:34 pm
Location: You can run, but, you'll just die tired

Re: Let's make a Mikov

Postby eastcoastsniper » Tue Mar 24, 2009 11:47 pm

I hold the wheel steady and in position with my right hand and move the scale with my left hand. As long as you go slowly and only take off 1/16 of an inch or so at a time, the scale will stay put. By doing it this way, you can also move the wheel up and down for your bevel cuts.

User avatar
Springmesser
Posts: 747
Joined: Mon May 12, 2008 5:21 am

Re: Let's make a Mikov

Postby Springmesser » Wed Mar 25, 2009 12:13 am

eastcoastsniper wrote:I hold the wheel steady and in position with my right hand and move the scale with my left hand. As long as you go slowly and only take off 1/16 of an inch or so at a time, the scale will stay put. By doing it this way, you can also move the wheel up and down for your bevel cuts.


I don't know about one handing it for a first time builder?


Return to “Switchblade knives”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 9 guests