Chinese swing guard project

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LD57
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Joined: Fri Jul 09, 2004 2:08 pm

Chinese swing guard project

Post by LD57 »

I’ve decided to replace the scales on the Chinese swing guard I got a few weeks ago.
I think I will cut/grind/peen the back spring pin so it is covered by the new scales. Screws (maybe) for the other pins.
The recess in the scale for the button side looks a little challenging.
Any thoughts on the best way to cut/drill/carve that recess? And the sequence: hole first, or recess first, or pin holes first? 🤔 Thanks!
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Last edited by LD57 on Sat Sep 24, 2022 2:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Bill DeShivs
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Re: Some advice needed

Post by Bill DeShivs »

Since the knife is screwed together, why not just peen the pins? You can easily get to both sides.
You need to make the handle out of a material that will hold up in thin sections-wood probably won't hold up.
I would cut the recess first, then the button hole. I would use a mill, but since you probably don't have one, the recess can be carefully cut with a Dremel or flexible shaft machine.
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Killgar
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Re: Some advice needed

Post by Killgar »

A few examples of mine below.

Here's how I do it-

Start with an oversized piece of handle material so you have extra all the way around.

Determine where you want the button hole, making sure that there will be a little extra handle material at the top end of the scale, maybe around 1/8" or 3/16".

Drill the hole for the button.

Measure how long and wide the cavity needs to be in the scale for the release mechanism.

Then what I do is drill out as much of the cavity as possible, being very careful not to go all the way through. And then I finish the cavity by using a dremel chainsaw sharpening bit (454 or 455) in my drill press at the highest speed to "mill" out the cavity, bringing the bit down onto the scale and moving the scale forward and back along the bit. This is a slow process because only a little material can be removed at a time.

When the cavity is done and the scale fits over the release mechanism with the bolsters removed from the liners, I replace the bolsters and then remove the extra handle material at the top of the scale little by little until I get a good fit with the button in the hole and the the scale between the bolsters.

Then I hold the scale in place on the liner with a spring clamp and mark the location for one of the pin/post holes. Then I remove the scale from the liner and drill that pin/post hole. Then I use a post or screw with a nut to secure the scale in place on the liner using the hole I just drilled and then drill the other holes using the liner as a drilling template. I do it this way so that all the holes line up perfectly.

And then I finish shaping the scale. Sometimes I have to file the inside circumference of the button hole with a round file to produce the perfect amount of clearance for the button to go up and down without rubbing. And that's it.

But that's my way. Since the cavity isn't likely going to be seen by anybody, one could always use a hand-held dremel and grind out the cavity with grinding bits or even a cutting wheel. It won't look refined, but it will still work.

These were done in G10. There were no bolsters on these knives, so fitting between the buttons and bolsters was not an issue. But I've used the method described above on several switchblades with bolsters. But in each case I always start with the button hole and work outward from there.

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LD57
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Re: Some advice needed

Post by LD57 »

Bill:
The rear bolsters are pinned for some reason, so even though the front is held by screws, I can’t take the knife apart without grinding those pin heads off.
I might do that.
LD57
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Re: Some advice needed

Post by LD57 »

Killgar:
I’ve only got a handheld dremel tool and a variety of cutting bits.
You’re right, it won’t be visible, but I’d like to get it as neat as possible.
LD57
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Re: Some advice needed

Post by LD57 »

Bill:
And there are 2 pins holding the rear bolsters, so I can’t just rotate the liners apart enough to get to the insides of the liners. 🤬
LD57
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Re: Some advice needed

Post by LD57 »

Ok, made some progress. I think this is gonna work out ok. Still need to drill the pin and button holes. If this project goes south, it will be the pin/button drilling.
I decided not to take the knife apart. It would make the hole placement a lot easier, but I’m all in now.
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Bill DeShivs
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Re: Some advice needed

Post by Bill DeShivs »

Nice fitment!
The material is pretty brittle in thin sections, though.
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LD57
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Re: Some advice needed

Post by LD57 »

Yes, it’s thin near the top, but I think it will hold up.
Won’t know if there’s enough clearance until I drill for the button. It’s close. If not, I was thinking of adding a thin blue spacer.
The original scale is about 3/16. The new scale is 3/16, so should be OK. Should be…
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john
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Re: Some advice needed

Post by john »

I think you should use the old scale as a template; position it over the new scale and drill it with your drill press. Then flip it over and carve out the channel for the button and safety.
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LD57
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Re: Some advice needed

Post by LD57 »

John:
That’s the plan. No drill press, though. :D How hard could it be?
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Re: Some advice needed

Post by john »

All you need is a steady hand. Can’t wait to see your rescaled knife.
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Re: Some advice needed

Post by Bill DeShivs »

Better to put the new scale in place, and drill through the liners.
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http://www.billdeshivs.com
Factory authorized repairs for:
Latama, Mauro Mario, LePre, Colonial, Kabar, Flylock, Schrade Cut Co., Presto, Press Button, Hubertus, Grafrath, Kuno Ritter knives, Puma, Burrell Cutlery.
LD57
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Joined: Fri Jul 09, 2004 2:08 pm

Re: Some advice needed

Post by LD57 »

You're right, Bill.
The template idea might work.
Drilling through the liners will definitely work.
I'm gonna grind the rear bolster pins and take the knife apart.
LD57
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Re: Chinese swing guard project

Post by LD57 »

We take you live to Lakehurst NJ, where the Hindenburg is beginning its final approach.
Now it’s a project. 👍
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