Are these 3 worth fixing?

A growing number of collectors customize their automatic knives by changing scales, bolsters, blades, doing fileworks, ... Wether you're a guru or just a wannabe knife modder, this is the place to discuss it!

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button_man
Posts: 632
Joined: Mon Feb 11, 2019 2:08 pm

Are these 3 worth fixing?

Post by button_man »

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According to Mark Erickson, these three knives -- if original / MINT condition -- would all be valued at around 250+ each.
The yellow Shur-Snap and yellow Snappy just need new springs. The Shur-Snap has a tiny bit of S2S blade wobble.
The knife with simulated jigged-bone scales has no spring, and significant blade wobble.

According to M.E. the brass button on the yellow Shur-Snap indicates very early manufacture: late 1940s / early 1950s.
The large non-brass button on the Snappy indicates early 1950s.
The faux-bone knife also has the large non-brass button from the early 1950s.

The faux-bone knife is notable for its carbon steel blade, similar to the N.Y. souvenir knife shown on page 44 of M.E.'s book.
Only two or three knives in the 'Colonial' chapter have carbon steel blades; all the other knives have what are called
"high carbon blades" on page 48 (card knife store displays) which appear to be cheap stainless steel.
Interestingly, Mr. Erickson does not mention steel differences in Colonial knives at all.

I have noticed that there isn't a whole lot of apparent interest in the 1950s American spring-knives on this site;
and as we all know, in the collecting world, there is often a big difference in Book Value vs. real-world value.
Are these knives worth the expense and effort of having them repaired? Thanks ~ ~ ~
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sammy the blade
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Location: Indiana

Re: Are these 3 worth fixing?

Post by sammy the blade »

Sure, why not.
2024 candidate for president
button_man
Posts: 632
Joined: Mon Feb 11, 2019 2:08 pm

Re: Are these 3 worth fixing?

Post by button_man »

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Well, one reason that leaps to mind is that it will probably cost a couple hundred dollars.....
I simply don't know enough about the current market to decide whether it will be worth the expense.
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Bill DeShivs
Yes.
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Re: Are these 3 worth fixing?

Post by Bill DeShivs »

There is no difference between "carbon steel," and "high carbon steel" blades. All of those are the same steel. One has oxidized.
They are worth repairing, but I doubt you'll make any money on the deal-but you'll have working knives.
Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler
http://www.billdeshivs.com
Factory authorized repairs for:
Latama, Mauro Mario, LePre, Colonial, Kabar, Flylock, Schrade Cut Co., Presto, Press Button, Hubertus, Grafrath, Kuno Ritter knives, Puma, Burrell Cutlery.
button_man
Posts: 632
Joined: Mon Feb 11, 2019 2:08 pm

Re: Are these 3 worth fixing?

Post by button_man »

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Very interesting! Thanks Bill...! The photo doesn't show the difference as well as you could see in real life; but honestly,
you would think they are completely different alloys. (I only have $50 into the 3 pieces so far; so repairs are the only
significant cost in the equation. I know they are just cheapo 'card knives' but I like them and may get them fixed anyway.
However, I've just now looked at the AAPK listings, and I can see that these don't really bring much money. So I dunno...)
Fishtail Picklock
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Re: Are these 3 worth fixing?

Post by Fishtail Picklock »

These underrated pocket knives are as refreshing as a cold Pacific Northwest morning! They're what "old-school" pocket autos are all about!
Fishtail Picklock
button_man
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Joined: Mon Feb 11, 2019 2:08 pm

Re: Are these 3 worth fixing?

Post by button_man »

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I think so too! Everyone likes the Italian stilettos because "they look mean" but the more I am exposed to the vintage American spring-knives,
the more I am coming to appreciate that they are part of small-town American heritage, with a sort of innocent charm all their own.
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jerryk25
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Re: Are these 3 worth fixing?

Post by jerryk25 »

Worth Fixing ? . . . NOT for the purpose of resale value.
If you molest it, it is worth less. . . .
If you "rescue" a really bad one, people will forgive you.
But repairing every one of these worn out Shure Snaps and the like
only wrecks it , and in the future, a better technology might fix it better.
So some should stay in their present condition.
I have a few that the spring broke, and it stayed closed for a century,
and because of this, the blade is pristine.
You can even see the swish marks from the factory crocus sharpening.

Many people are hoarding boxes of broken American Card knives. (sold on a card in hardware stores.)
And in the pile are liners and bolsters and scales and blades galore.
All are missing springs, all have worn blades, all have sear arms that are chipped in the wrong place.
So it's great fodder for mangling experimentation.
Please don't disassemble something that is still pretty intact. Just for a resale profit.

I Have a great fondness for the little yellow "Snappy" . . I have 3, two yellow ones and a brown swirl one.
I have put bobby pins (hair pins) into many old USA knives . . . .without taking them apart.
without altering the original parts.

DO NOT TAP/PEEN THE PIVOT PIN IN ORDER TO TIGHTEN WOBBLE LIKE A BIGGER KNIFE.
the actual pivot pin is a hollow rivet inside, The pin only holds the bolster in place.

BUT. . . . don't expect them to flick out strong like a new knife.
The bobby pin should only kick the blade out, and not always throw it out completely.

I have on occasion stuck a too powerful larger bobby pin inside a knife only to find
the sear is so worn, it won't stay closed. . . requiring dis-assembly, and more work.
And at a certain point, your "repair" makes the knife worth less than an unmolested broken knife..
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