question about my new switchblade i got in
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question about my new switchblade i got in
hello all
I got my blades in very nice but i have a question about my switch balde sometimes it don't open all the way i have put so light oil in the poivt area. and it still does it will this go away after it get broken in more? this normal? or do you guys have a better way of fixing this?
thanks
p.s i'am hooked on blades now..i will be placing a second order BUT wife not to happy about it...hehehehe
one more thing VERY good service tiny's has!!!!!!!
I got my blades in very nice but i have a question about my switch balde sometimes it don't open all the way i have put so light oil in the poivt area. and it still does it will this go away after it get broken in more? this normal? or do you guys have a better way of fixing this?
thanks
p.s i'am hooked on blades now..i will be placing a second order BUT wife not to happy about it...hehehehe
one more thing VERY good service tiny's has!!!!!!!
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blad not opining fully
if it's a coil fired knife you may be able to back off the screw that holds the blade to the scale, i personally don't like to oil them up' attracts dirt, pocket treasurers, aka fuzz!
I have this problem with an Inox Stiletto
I found out if I hold the knife very tight with 3 fingers at the bottom and fire the botton it opens up o.k 85% of the time but I did not buy this knife from Tiny I think this knife I have is a bit defective because I got it a a great price ...They say you get what you pay for But still it is a nice knife.I have tried some oil and wd40 but it did not change anything good luck.
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blade not opining all the way
your pivit pin may be too tight
Aside from something obvious like a tight pivot pin, you might also invest about $6 in a 1 ounce bottle of Militec-1 Weapons-Grade Lubricant.
This stuff is like "slick-50" for your knives and guns. After applying liberally, allow it to "soak" in overnight before wiping the excess away. The manufacturer claims that it actually penetrates metal at a molecular level.
It was recommended to me by a gunsmith and cured some problems I was having with a new Glock .40 with ejector problems. I tried it and found it to be an instant cure for lots of metal on metal issues.
Benchmade Knives endorses the stuff too. The product is available at gun shows as well as your local gun shop. A one ounce bottle contains enough product to lube at least 50-60 knives. I use it here on almost every knife I sell - just a little insurance to make sure stuff works right out of the box when the customer receives it. Also sold in a 4 ounce "Armorer's Kit" with a really nifty 3" injector needle good for getting into tight places.
Do a google search on the product to find the maker's site. They were giving away a tiny free bottle by mail - about .25 ounce.
Hope that helps.
Chris
This stuff is like "slick-50" for your knives and guns. After applying liberally, allow it to "soak" in overnight before wiping the excess away. The manufacturer claims that it actually penetrates metal at a molecular level.
It was recommended to me by a gunsmith and cured some problems I was having with a new Glock .40 with ejector problems. I tried it and found it to be an instant cure for lots of metal on metal issues.
Benchmade Knives endorses the stuff too. The product is available at gun shows as well as your local gun shop. A one ounce bottle contains enough product to lube at least 50-60 knives. I use it here on almost every knife I sell - just a little insurance to make sure stuff works right out of the box when the customer receives it. Also sold in a 4 ounce "Armorer's Kit" with a really nifty 3" injector needle good for getting into tight places.
Do a google search on the product to find the maker's site. They were giving away a tiny free bottle by mail - about .25 ounce.
Hope that helps.
Chris
- mrbigg
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hey mr sclark that sounds like good advice to me, although if your pin is too tight it may not be enough. now, i'm not saying this is the best thing to do, but i have done it to one i over-tightened with a hammer. i simple applied some side to side pressure to the blade, to loosen the pin up a bit. this with some super slick knife juice will more than likely free it up a little.
i suppose the correct way to loosen it up would involve some kind of a pinectomy! good luck!
i suppose the correct way to loosen it up would involve some kind of a pinectomy! good luck!
- DISTORTION
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Welcome to the forum MR.TEQUIZA!
And MR.FISHKNIFE,youve been lurking havnt you?chime-in more often
Alot of brand-new knives are stiff,work em a little
and they will be fine.besides,here is where youll find the best help
if you get knotted-off.by all means enjoy the hobby!
And MR.FISHKNIFE,youve been lurking havnt you?chime-in more often
Alot of brand-new knives are stiff,work em a little
and they will be fine.besides,here is where youll find the best help
if you get knotted-off.by all means enjoy the hobby!
The first step in avoiding a trap,
is knowing of its existance...................
is knowing of its existance...................
thank you distortion,you can call me tequiza,you can call me pete(my real name) but please don,t call me mr,being the ripe young age of 59 it almost makes me feel old,having been a switchblade addict since the age of 11 (rebel without a cause) i find sites like ba and talk blade a godsend and look forward to many good talks with you folks.
Polish a knife, cook a pig, drink several beers
- Vagrant
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Try working the knife lefthanded [you get a stronger grip] use your index finger to push the button, If it works better this way work on your grip in the other hand between a better grip and some time "breaking it in" it should be o.k. Save the side to side wiggle 'till last because while it frequently works it's possible to break/bend the blade or bend the pin [and that makes things much worse]. Experiment with different oils for some reason that I don't uderstand knives can be real individuals and have their own favorite. Always flush the previous oil before trying a new one.