Build Along

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ILikeStilettos
Posts: 1473
Joined: Tue Jan 28, 2014 3:36 pm
Location: Norman, Oklahoma, USA
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Build Along

Postby ILikeStilettos » Fri Oct 26, 2018 3:05 pm

On the other forum (SharperDeals) one of the top builders suggested a "build along" project and I created this design as a suggested common format. I was accused of highjacking his post, which was not my intention. For TalkBlade I am definitely highjacking the idea, since the OP didn't make the suggestion here. If you want to participate, suggest you do so through SD. Either way, I wanted to show the design, in case someone wanted to take a crack at building one.

I would be happy to provide exact size templates to anyone requesting (Send me email address and snail mail address in a PM. This presupposes I can send you an envelope by regular mail and you will receive it in something like a few days. Australia and Middle East definitely do not work!) I suggest 12" overall, 5/32" blade and springs, 1/16" stainless or 3/32" brass liners, 5/32" pivot, 3/32" brass or stainless pins, 1/4" thick NS furniture and scales. The way I have drawn this, 1/16" pins could be substituted through out (it needs a 1/16" pin at the midpin where things get tight.) It could be standard buttons as shown or an exposed rocker using any sort of pivot you like (I like the tube approach, but to each his own.)

I drew it as a narrow, wasp-waisted 12" to get the wicked look, but 11" is possible. I just wanted to throw something out there to get the conversation started. I already know one builder is in Tasmania, which makes sending accurate templates daunting. I also know that many builders don't work from formal specifications. Everyone can build in his normal fashion with or without templates.

This design uses a two piece spring which can be changed out with a single pin removed. I can never seem to get the ears right, but I figure this is something that the builder can fix. I also made the nose of the top bolster a bit long, I will need to shorten it a hair later. Also, the kicker has a ball on the end and is designed to protrude slightly when the blade is fired. The wasp design makes it tricky to keep the kicker from riding against the sharp edge of the blade, the ball helps. I try to design so that the point sits at least 1/8" down into the blade well and then has room to move 1/16" deeper so that the sear will absolutely engage before the kicker is tight against the back spring. I am designing with forgiveness on the placement of the sear hole so that the blade tip does not peak.

Open view with internal parts shown:

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This is how I figure out the kick spring in relaxed and compressed modes:

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Since many folks get confused by the xray views, and also to show the completed knife, I have eliminated some information to make it clearer.

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