Getting the "Factory Look"

[WhitleyStu]

Yep, call me picky, but I have never been able to get that perfect sheen on the sides of the edge of my blades. Sure they will shave and keep a good edge for quite some time, but I would like to get that factory look on each blade. Even a few minutes on the strop does not eliminate the small hone marks. After receiving my Godfather and seeing the perfect “looking” edge that was also the sharpest I have had on any new knife I contacted Protech and was told the following:

“We use a custom made machine that has interlocking diamond coated wheels. It sharpens both sides @ the same time, and then we buff them. At the front of the machine we have built a custom fixture system that holds the knives straight as the operator brings them through the machine by hand. It’s not completely automatic, but it does yield a nice even edge.”

I have a Baldor just perfect for a pair of 8” paper wheels like these:
http://users.ameritech.net/knives/paper.htm

Also this Burke in an interesting machine with four different wheels:
http://www.mountainwoodcarvers.com/sharpeni1.htm

I would be interested in any feedbacks you gents have who have tried the paper wheels or a unit like the Burke.

[Diggaway]

Hello WhitleyStu; While I've never used paper wheels I see nobody else has commented, so I'll share my thoughts. I am not that keen on power wheel sharpening or buffing of high quality knives, for any number of reasons, but for a flawless and flat edge polish I hand sharpen on a goldstone(8000x) for the final touch. This process follows the same bevels applied with my Arkansas stones--even a finish from the hard Arkansas looks good.
Regards, Diggaway

[WhitleyStu]

Diggaway,
Thanks for the reply. I Googled goldstone and 8000x but could not find any matches. Could you give me any more info on this...
Thanks,
WhitleyStu

[Diggaway]

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx ... 3072,43071
It is a Japanese waterstone and like others of its type is much more friable than novaculite. You can gouge them easily and they dish out more rapidly--example, I have wornout 3 combination (250x1000) waterstones in 20 yrs but my 35yr old medium Arkansas is still ticking(I do a lot of sharpening). That being said, when used carefully they really do put on the "vanity" edge without danger of grabbing or heating your blade,or having to hold just the right angle to the wheel.
The company linked also carries a line of felt wheels.When I must use power(eg polishing a convex axe or hatchet edge) I use the hard felt wheel charged with the green chromium oxide polish.
Regards, Diggaway

[Diggaway]

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx ... 3072,43071
It is a Japanese waterstone and like others of its type is much more friable than novaculite. You can gouge them easily and they dish out more rapidly--example, I have wornout 3 combination (250x1000) waterstones in 20 yrs but my 35yr old medium Arkansas is still ticking(I do a lot of sharpening). That being said, when used carefully they really do put on the "vanity" edge without danger of grabbing or heating your blade,or having to hold just the right angle to the wheel.
The company linked also carries a line of felt wheels.When I must use power(eg polishing a convex axe or hatchet edge) I use the hard felt wheel charged with the green chromium oxide polish.
Back in the days before I had access to the fancy stones my inexpensive expedient approach to a polished edge was to use 600gr wet or dry paper on a hardwood block, in the same fashion one would use a stone. Allowing the paper to dry and load up produced a nice polish.Of course now even 1500gr is commonly sold in hardware stores and it does just fine.A bit of patience to cheaply acquire the necessary skills is more rewarding to me than throwing money into a relatively expensive system that although does the job faster it can't do it better, and could in the process ruin your blade, your health, and your day.
Regards, Diggaway