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The choice of blade grind has come up "scandi" or "flat" grind.
Anyone have have any opinions on these as a user for general purpose knife for rough camping in the woods.
Blade has to be sharpened on a simple stone in the field not reliant on a sharpening system.
Cheers
RB
A good hollow grind is also light and can take an edge like anything. Who's the maker in the pic? The style is Dozier nice and simple. Plain vanilla knife that you can beat the hell out of. What steel are you going with and handle slabs. Knife like that screams out for D-2.
PB
For rough, heavy use, a hollow grind is a little weak. D-2 has an excelllent reputation for being the ideal compromise between stainless and simple carbon steels but it can be slightly brittle compared to the carbon steels. Go with a flat grind for extra strength.
i was going to say hollow ground too because that grind with good steel is scary sharp - but my little benchmade with 154-cm is flatground and i've been using it daily for six months - still shaving sharp
mr pushbutton/vagrant - i have a small 5 1/4" fixed blade i carry with O-1 and it too is VeRy sharp - how does O-1 compare to D2?
The maker is Nick Wheeler.
Blade is O1.
Nick is doing the blade and Jamie Briggs is doing the sheath http://www.briggscustomleather.com/ .
I need someone in the US to do the scales ,any suggestions?
The "scandi" grind is popular for "bushcraft" or "woodlore" type blades but I'm not sure what the difference is between scandi and flat ground?
RB
Al
I said hollow ground cause it isn't a campknife. I agree on a big campknife or Bowie a flat or even a convex grind like Moran uses is better but for a small knife doing small chores I don't think a hollow grind would be bad.
PB
I don't know what a "scandi" grind is, but I suspect it is basically a sabre grind, like the picture. This grind is great, if you use your knife as a prybar. If you use your knife to cut things, the grind should go all the way to the top of the blade-either flat, or hollow ground.
Bill
Listing everything I like about O-1 would take too long to type
I'll list what I don't like:
1 - It can rust while you watch [literally ]
2 - There is no #2
As for D-2;
It's very interesting and most sources consider it "semi-stainless". It resists rusting better than all simple carbon steel. It is easier to sharpen than most stainless steels, but harder than carbon steel. It does tend to be a little brittle at high hardness levels but slightly lower rockwell #s still has good edge holding.
For wet weather/high humidity D-2
If you can keep it dry [or quickly dry it] O-1
I have ordered a couple of knives in 01 mainly because this is the trend in bushcraft blades at present.
One reason is because it's carbon content makes it better for using a Swedish fire steel and for knocking sparks of the blade with a flint ,again for fire lighting.
Will D2 work as well with a fire steel or with a flint to produce sparks?
It's just that i have realised that I NEED a Gene Ingram custom and he mainly works in D2.
Cheers
RB
rapidboy1 wrote:I have ordered a couple of knives in 01 mainly because this is the trend in bushcraft blades at present.
One reason is because it's carbon content makes it better for using a Swedish fire steel and for knocking sparks of the blade with a flint ,again for fire lighting.
Will D2 work as well with a fire steel or with a flint to produce sparks?
It's just that i have realised that I NEED a Gene Ingram custom and he mainly works in D2.
Cheers
RB
My favorite fire starter is a cigarette lighter. [O-rined Colibri with compass and thermometer ] For emergencies I have a magnesium block with flint insert. Most stainless steels will not spark, or spark VERY poorly, on flint. I've never tried D-2 but the "boderline" [almost stainless] chrome content makes me doubt it would spark well
[literally 
]
