switchblade repair question
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switchblade repair question
Hi everyone,
I recently inheritted a switchblade from my grandfather, but I believe it isn't anything special (except that it was his) because it has no brandname (just INOX and some sort of serial number) and it doesn't work right. It also has glue all over it... he must have been trying to fix it.
Anyway, the problem is that when you push the button up, the blade comes out nice and fast, but only about 3/4 of the way. Then, you have to pull the blade up until it clicks. When you do that and push the button back down, it usually goes in smoothly. If you don't pull it up, pushing the button down does nothing and the blade just slides around. It moves side to side pretty loosely, too.
Is there anyway to fix this? I took off a side of it, which doesn't look like I should have been able to take off, but he had done it and it was just glued on anyway. The side under the plastic it just metal with two holes. I also too out the bottom so you can see the bottom of the blade and bottom thing on the spring.
I believe it is worth fixing even though it is already dinged up and cheap. So, I would greatly appreciate any help at all!!
Thanks everyone,
Corley
P.S. I could upload a few photos if seeing the knife would help at all.
I recently inheritted a switchblade from my grandfather, but I believe it isn't anything special (except that it was his) because it has no brandname (just INOX and some sort of serial number) and it doesn't work right. It also has glue all over it... he must have been trying to fix it.
Anyway, the problem is that when you push the button up, the blade comes out nice and fast, but only about 3/4 of the way. Then, you have to pull the blade up until it clicks. When you do that and push the button back down, it usually goes in smoothly. If you don't pull it up, pushing the button down does nothing and the blade just slides around. It moves side to side pretty loosely, too.
Is there anyway to fix this? I took off a side of it, which doesn't look like I should have been able to take off, but he had done it and it was just glued on anyway. The side under the plastic it just metal with two holes. I also too out the bottom so you can see the bottom of the blade and bottom thing on the spring.
I believe it is worth fixing even though it is already dinged up and cheap. So, I would greatly appreciate any help at all!!
Thanks everyone,
Corley
P.S. I could upload a few photos if seeing the knife would help at all.
Hi and thanks for replying!!
I took six pictures to give you an idea of my descriptions.
You can see them in these two links:
http://www.geocities.com/corleymatzko/t ... 0347242143
http://www.geocities.com/corleymatzko/t ... 0346859564
I want to go through and explain them.
The first is the switchblade with the handle I said I had taken off.
The second is the knife open fully. I had to pull the blade up to get it out like that.
The third shows where the switch is. You can see the bottom part off, too.
The fourth shows the inside of the bottom.
The fifth is how far the blade goes out when you push the switch.
The sixth is how far it goes in and how loose it is.
Thanks for looking everyone. I hope this helps! Any suggestion at all would be good!
Corley
I took six pictures to give you an idea of my descriptions.
You can see them in these two links:
http://www.geocities.com/corleymatzko/t ... 0347242143
http://www.geocities.com/corleymatzko/t ... 0346859564
I want to go through and explain them.
The first is the switchblade with the handle I said I had taken off.
The second is the knife open fully. I had to pull the blade up to get it out like that.
The third shows where the switch is. You can see the bottom part off, too.
The fourth shows the inside of the bottom.
The fifth is how far the blade goes out when you push the switch.
The sixth is how far it goes in and how loose it is.
Thanks for looking everyone. I hope this helps! Any suggestion at all would be good!
Corley
I just realized I screw up and made both of those links the same. Here is the second one, anyway.
http://www.geocities.com/corleymatzko/t ... 0347309716
http://www.geocities.com/corleymatzko/t ... 0347309716
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- Posts: 335
- Joined: Sun Jan 30, 2005 7:29 am
That seems to be a link to a page of "stencils"...North Salem Vikings logo, Ultraman, etc...corley wrote:I just realized I screw up and made both of those links the same. Here is the second one, anyway.
http://www.geocities.com/corleymatzko/t ... 0347309716
At least that's what shows up in my browser...
- ratstuph
- Posts: 1255
- Joined: Wed Apr 16, 2003 11:31 pm
- Location: Land of 10,000 lakes and quite a few flakes...
corley,
I thought the stencils were interesting...
Anyway, you have an out the front (OTF) there and likely a double action (the same button fires the blade out, and retracts it) one, and some of the more "seasoned" guys should be able to tell you something about it, if it has any value (other than sentimental), or if it is repairable. It kind of resembles a Concord but I’m not sure. Have some patience and someone will come along with some useful info.
all the best dude,
Rats…
I thought the stencils were interesting...
Anyway, you have an out the front (OTF) there and likely a double action (the same button fires the blade out, and retracts it) one, and some of the more "seasoned" guys should be able to tell you something about it, if it has any value (other than sentimental), or if it is repairable. It kind of resembles a Concord but I’m not sure. Have some patience and someone will come along with some useful info.
all the best dude,
Rats…
sheep-free since '93'...
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- Posts: 335
- Joined: Sun Jan 30, 2005 7:29 am
well that knife vertainly looks old. im sure that custom knife makers can do something to fix it but i have no clue as if its worth fixing or not. the scales look like celluloid. if it has some meaning to you and you want to get it fixed, it would be worth it to talk it over with some custom knife makers. just PM me if you need links
seagull
seagull
- Bill DeShivs
- Yes.
- Posts: 7367
- Joined: Sat May 25, 2002 2:50 pm
- Location: In de lan o' cotton
- Contact:
Your knife was made in Italy in the 1960-1975 era. This model was marketed by the German firm of "Bonsa" and marked B&S in a rectangle.
It appears the butt end of your handle has broken out. Pull the blade all the way open, until it clicks. It should retract when you pull the button. If it does retract, oil the entire mechanism. Try to open the knife. There will always be blade play (looseness) in this model.
Bill
It appears the butt end of your handle has broken out. Pull the blade all the way open, until it clicks. It should retract when you pull the button. If it does retract, oil the entire mechanism. Try to open the knife. There will always be blade play (looseness) in this model.
Bill