Auto-Lites. My 2nd Generation Ti-Lite 6 Auto Conversions

[Killgar]

I thought I'd post my most recent variation of my Cold Steel Ti-Lite 6 switchblade conversions. I'm calling them Auto-Lites.

They're leaf spring fired just like my 1st generation conversions, and they also have a threaded post added just below the blade stop to reinforce the blade stop/pivot area. And like my 1st generation conversions they feature a tight, solid lock-up and zero blade play.

Video, and pictures.

The video-

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=reJxYF3GZo0








I designed and fabricated the safeties. They consist of a stainless steel slide that moves up and down along two guide posts, with a block that positions under the button to prevent it from being pressed. There is a spring-loaded ball-plunger set into the inside of the handle that corresponds with a hole in the slide. This feature holds the safety slide securely in the "on/safe" position and requires a deliberate effort to switch the safety into the "off" position. And I made bronze phosphor shims to put between the slides and the liners.

Everything is carefully fitted so that if you shake the knife nothing rattles.





You can see the ball-plunger set into the middle of the handle.



Here's a pic of a ball-plunger. All stainless steel.




Another feature of my G2 Auto-Lites is what I call the "no-brainer closing". How these knives are closed is just as important to me as how they open. I don't like having to carefully close a side-opening switchblade in order to avoid hitting the sharpened edge against the spring and causing a flat spot, I don't want to have to think about how I'm closing a knife. So I design my Auto-Lites specifically to prevent this.

When closing one of my Auto-Lites, the blade is simply squeezed into the handle until it hits the blade stop. The moment the blade hits the blade stop the sear drops into the blade-catch hole. All without the sharpened edge of the blade hitting anything. Achieving this is the most complicated part of doing the conversion and requires precise work.

I also create two relief ramps in the blade- one for the sear, and one for the ball detent in the liner lock. In a stock Ti-Lite 6 the edge of the tang scrapes over the ball creating the risk of stripping it out. A relief ramp eliminates this risk and along with the sear relief ramp produces a smooth closing.

A pic of the blade. You can see the relef ramp for the ball detent in the lower right hand of the tang. You can also see where I drilled and filled the detent divot (filled with stainless steel rod) in order to reduce resistance during opening. Just one of the many steps involved in the conversion process.

[whippersnapper]

Sweet!

[djones]

Amazing work. Wish you could convert mine, but I am pretty sure, I could not afford. Please keep posting pictures of your work.

[Tom19176]

Great work !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[LD57]

Outstanding!
But I’m holding out for the lever-lock conversion..

[LD57]

I’m wondering if you move the button to the hole where the safety is, could the button/pin be positioned and configured to hold the spring instead of the blade? A double action: blade opens/closes like stock, or press the button for switchblade deployment.
Not a criticism at all, just wondering.

[Killgar]

Thanks guys, I'm glad you like them.

I’m wondering if you move the button to the hole where the safety is, could the button/pin be positioned and configured to hold the spring instead of the blade? A double action: blade opens/closes like stock, or press the button for switchblade deployment.
Not a criticism at all, just wondering.

Not to worry LD57, I appreciate your interest .

As far as a double-action version, the button would have to be set in the third large hole down on the right side (although the screw hole right above it would be an issue). But if the button were visible, I think it would defeat the purpose of having a double-action auto. All the double action side openers I see have hidden release mechanisms. I think the idea is so the knife can pass as a manual and not be easily identified as an auto. The most common methods I see used are hidden sliding mechanisms (handle or bolster), or a button hidden under a rubber handle insert. I don't believe either would be possible using the stock Ti-Lite handle scales, at least not without some serious modification of the handle which at this point is beyond my ability.

As far as the placement of the button, it's a good thing that it's located in the left side hole. When I came up with the idea to put the button in the hole I wasn't sure how I would like it being placed to the side, I have always preferred a centered button. But when I finished the first one of these, the knife fired so hard that if the button had been centered, or worse, placed on the right side, I'm pretty confident the knife would fly out of ones hand. The button has no texture/grip, and the handles aren't extremely grippy either, so having the button set in the forward curvature of the handle allows for a better grip and better control over the knife during opening by basically pushing the knife back into ones hand when pressing the button in.

[LD57]

Good point about the normal “secret identity” of a double action switchblade. Although I have seen Buck 110’s that are manual open and automatic.
If one could make a button that fit flush with the hole (probably not enough travel to work easily) then fill the other holes with similar faux buttons… lots of work, small return.
The button placement you’ve got makes sense and doesn’t need the extra work of a centered button. Plus the safety can be operated without the hand movement/repositioning of an Italian auto. That’s just good design, even if there was a bit of luck in the ti-lite’s original layout.

[button_man]

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I don't have much money, but I'd be willing to trade my left nut for one of these.... I don't use it much any more....
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[sammy the blade]

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I don't have much money, but I'd be willing to trade my left nut for one of these.... I don't use it much any more....
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Careful what you wish for.

[fastr19]

Microtech made a lot on obvious double actions.

[john]

Very cool excellent conversion!

[Killgar]

Good point about the normal “secret identity” of a double action switchblade. Although I have seen Buck 110’s that are manual open and automatic.
If one could make a button that fit flush with the hole (probably not enough travel to work easily) then fill the other holes with similar faux buttons… lots of work, small return.
The button placement you’ve got makes sense and doesn’t need the extra work of a centered button. Plus the safety can be operated without the hand movement/repositioning of an Italian auto. That’s just good design, even if there was a bit of luck in the ti-lite’s original layout.

On the subject of filling the holes, I looked for any kind of rubber plugs that might fit nicely in the larger holes in order to increase grip, with the plugs protruding out a little, but I didn't find any that I thought would work well. And I really searched. If I were going to carry one I would coat the handle with Plastidip for a good grip, which is what I did with my daily-carry manual Ti-Lite 6.

In regards to the position of the safety, you're right on the money. One of the requirements I had for the safety was that it be positioned in a way so that the same hand position that fired the knife also worked the safety. I didn't want to have to alter my grip on the knife.

And you're right about "luck". There was A LOT of luck involved in the design. The button fitting in the hole (with a bit of enlargement), the length of the sear/rocker in relation to the distance from the handle hole to the blade catch hole placement in the ricasso, the amount of room inside the handle to fit everything, the knob for the safety (skinny thumb stud) is perfect for the purpose, and the size, design, and spring tension of the ball-plunger (without the ball-plunger the safety would not exist).

I get the release mechanisms and firing springs by buying existing switchblades. And while this is expensive, it's another stroke of luck that they are available, and that the parts work.

It was also a stroke of luck that I had some threaded stainless steel posts (pic below) with a driver slot in the head. I use 2 of these per knife, one to help secure the spring, the other goes below the blade stop. These posts are the only small diameter threaded posts I have ever found with a head designed to accept a screwdriver of any kind. Being able to hold the posts securely when tightening/loosening the screws is important during assembly/disassembly). These posts were only sold by one guy who had them specially made. I've used these in various switchblade/knife builds and I bought several extra just in case I might need them some day. Good thing, because they're no longer available. Funny thing is, there were a few years where I thought I was done making switchblades, and I thought these posts had been a waste of money ($7 each), but now I'm glad I bought them, they really came in handy with these knives. I have a limited supply, enough for 3 more Auto-Lites (there are currently 5 finished Auto-Lites), but I have a plan for an improvised replacement when the time comes.

A little luck never hurts when making switchblades .

Wow, I didn't plan on going on that long. But I like talking about switchblades .

[Killgar]

Very cool excellent conversion!

Thanks John .

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I don't have much money, but I'd be willing to trade my left nut for one of these.... I don't use it much any more....
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Thank you for the compliment button_man, I'm glad you like the knives. But I'm gonna decline the offer .

[jerryk25]

Impressive. . . .Clean design. . . well executed. . . .
Thanks for the construction photos.