buffer recommendation
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buffer recommendation
What speed buffer do you recommend for polishing blades? Is there a buffer you recommend without breaking the bank?
- Bill DeShivs
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Re: buffer recommendation
1750 RPM is the most useful. 3600 RPM will move a lot of metal, fast-but there is little room for error.
I would watch Ebay for a Baldor dental polishing lathe. They are used with tapered spindles so that you can change buffs easily. Most are 2 speed 1725/3600 RPM. They can be had for around $125-$150.
I would watch Ebay for a Baldor dental polishing lathe. They are used with tapered spindles so that you can change buffs easily. Most are 2 speed 1725/3600 RPM. They can be had for around $125-$150.
Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler
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Re: buffer recommendation
Soooo, to add on to this question. I have read (your knife101 forums) that you suggest Sewn Muslin buffer pads/wheels. Can you please go into a little detail on this? Something like recommended sizes (diameter), ply ( if concentric), compounds stick/bars(say for scales, blade, etc) (you also say on your forum you found the 400 grit brush on compound most useful, do you suggest the brush on vs bar/solid?). Also, if time permitting, maybe a small how to on prepping a wheel? I haven't ever used a buffer, grinding and wire wheels yes.
Looking for those un-repairable, lost cause stilettos.
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Re: buffer recommendation
that would be really useful info... I am used to polishing brass hardware, etc but not sure where to start on horn and nickel/silver .....
- Bill DeShivs
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Re: buffer recommendation
I'll do the best I can.
Sewn muslin for general work. Loose muslin for final polish.
I like 6" to 8" wheels for general work, but smaller wheels come in very handy. Using smaller buffs effectively slows the surface speed of your buffer down- so if you have a 3600 buffer, use 4" wheels to keep from burning sensitive materials.
I now use Jantz greaseless compounds instead of the brush-on. They cut smoother and are easier to recharge. 320 and 600 greaseless are what I use the most for heavier buffing. Tripoli is great for plastics and brass. My general polishes are a gray stainless compound and green rouge for finishing. Get high chromium content green rouge, as it cuts better.
Don't forget Scotchbrite and similar wheels. They are very handy for satin and brushed finishes.
Hard felt wheels are good for polishing flat items to bright finishes, and shaped felt wheels are great for polishing tight spots.
Buy good buffs from a known source like www.riogrande.com . New buffs will throw fibers everywhere, and you will also have to trim them off the wheel. Eventually, they will get a good "head" of polishing compound and stop shedding. I have never used a "rake" to clean a polishing wheel. They are not necessary.
Never use more than one compound on a buff. You can never remove compounds from a buff. You can go to a heavier compound, but never back to a finer compound.
For horn and soft materials, I usually sand to 400 grit, then polish with 0000 steel wool, then green compound on a sewn muslin wheel. Nickel silver polishes just like brass.
Sewn muslin for general work. Loose muslin for final polish.
I like 6" to 8" wheels for general work, but smaller wheels come in very handy. Using smaller buffs effectively slows the surface speed of your buffer down- so if you have a 3600 buffer, use 4" wheels to keep from burning sensitive materials.
I now use Jantz greaseless compounds instead of the brush-on. They cut smoother and are easier to recharge. 320 and 600 greaseless are what I use the most for heavier buffing. Tripoli is great for plastics and brass. My general polishes are a gray stainless compound and green rouge for finishing. Get high chromium content green rouge, as it cuts better.
Don't forget Scotchbrite and similar wheels. They are very handy for satin and brushed finishes.
Hard felt wheels are good for polishing flat items to bright finishes, and shaped felt wheels are great for polishing tight spots.
Buy good buffs from a known source like www.riogrande.com . New buffs will throw fibers everywhere, and you will also have to trim them off the wheel. Eventually, they will get a good "head" of polishing compound and stop shedding. I have never used a "rake" to clean a polishing wheel. They are not necessary.
Never use more than one compound on a buff. You can never remove compounds from a buff. You can go to a heavier compound, but never back to a finer compound.
For horn and soft materials, I usually sand to 400 grit, then polish with 0000 steel wool, then green compound on a sewn muslin wheel. Nickel silver polishes just like brass.
Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler
http://www.billdeshivs.com
Factory authorized repairs for:
Latama, Mauro Mario, LePre, Colonial, Kabar, Flylock, Schrade Cut Co., Presto, Press Button, Hubertus, Grafrath, Kuno Ritter knives, Puma, Burrell Cutlery.
http://www.billdeshivs.com
Factory authorized repairs for:
Latama, Mauro Mario, LePre, Colonial, Kabar, Flylock, Schrade Cut Co., Presto, Press Button, Hubertus, Grafrath, Kuno Ritter knives, Puma, Burrell Cutlery.
Re: buffer recommendation
Great info Bill, thanks
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Re: buffer recommendation
Killer brief tutorial; thanks.
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Re: buffer recommendation
thank you for taking the time to write that out Bill... I can't wait to try out an old beater knife.
Mike
Mike
- Bill DeShivs
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Re: buffer recommendation
Experimentation is your friend.
Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler
http://www.billdeshivs.com
Factory authorized repairs for:
Latama, Mauro Mario, LePre, Colonial, Kabar, Flylock, Schrade Cut Co., Presto, Press Button, Hubertus, Grafrath, Kuno Ritter knives, Puma, Burrell Cutlery.
http://www.billdeshivs.com
Factory authorized repairs for:
Latama, Mauro Mario, LePre, Colonial, Kabar, Flylock, Schrade Cut Co., Presto, Press Button, Hubertus, Grafrath, Kuno Ritter knives, Puma, Burrell Cutlery.
Re: buffer recommendation
Most excellent! Mr. Bill, thank you for taking the time to enlighten us. I'm looking forward to the experimentation in my near future!
Looking for those un-repairable, lost cause stilettos.
- Bill DeShivs
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- Posts: 7391
- Joined: Sat May 25, 2002 2:50 pm
- Location: In de lan o' cotton
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Re: buffer recommendation
Be very careful. Never present the work to the wheel in a manner that could cause it to be grabbed by the wheel.
Slower buffers are much less dangerous than fast ones, too.
Slower buffers are much less dangerous than fast ones, too.
Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler
http://www.billdeshivs.com
Factory authorized repairs for:
Latama, Mauro Mario, LePre, Colonial, Kabar, Flylock, Schrade Cut Co., Presto, Press Button, Hubertus, Grafrath, Kuno Ritter knives, Puma, Burrell Cutlery.
http://www.billdeshivs.com
Factory authorized repairs for:
Latama, Mauro Mario, LePre, Colonial, Kabar, Flylock, Schrade Cut Co., Presto, Press Button, Hubertus, Grafrath, Kuno Ritter knives, Puma, Burrell Cutlery.
Re: buffer recommendation
Hi Bill,
I know this is it the first time you’ve been asked buffers. I can remember a long time back when I asked about buffers and buffing compound’s.
Thank you for the refresher course.
John
I know this is it the first time you’ve been asked buffers. I can remember a long time back when I asked about buffers and buffing compound’s.
Thank you for the refresher course.
John
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John
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John
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