Valve Grinding Compound

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oregon
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Valve Grinding Compound

Post by oregon »

My beautiful new Leverletto works pretty well. However, about 3 0f 10 times it would stick open in the 9:00 or 11:00 positions instead of snapping full open and locking. I tried a little light gun oil impregnated with teflon and it got worse. Next, I tried Zymol cleaner wax and it got worse. I flushed and worked the blade with light oil until it ran clear and it works better.

What about using valve grinding compound to polish the contacting parts? Good or bad idea? How well does the the stuff come out if it is used?

Other alternatives to smooth the snap?

Thank you kindly.

All the best,

Steve
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Bill DeShivs
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Post by Bill DeShivs »

DON'T!!!!
The compound will embed itself into the parts and it will never work right.
Clean all oil out of the mechanism. Use solvents for this.
Then put automotive lithium grease on the blade tang. Get the grease into the locking hole in the blade. Do not use a lot of grease-just enough to lubricate. Use a toothpick, and just get a little on the tip.
If this doesn't work, then try loosening the blade by wiggling it side to side. You can tap the pivot pin once on each side with a small hammer, then wiggle the blade. This should loosen it up enough.
Bill
oregon
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Post by oregon »

Thank you for the warning. Valve compound for valves.

I cleaned and worked the blade and all moving parts with alcohol. Then I dried it all off.

Before putting on the White Lithium I noticed this when firing: Push the lever slightly until just reaching the sweet spot and then no further she fires perfectly. However, push the lever in anger to the limit, without regard for just reaching the sweet spot, and hang fire every time. And, if the blade hangs in the eleven o'clock position it ofter will fully open and lock if I wiggle the lever a bit.

After the slight touch of grease, delivered on the end of a toothpick, placed down the lever shaft hole when the lever is fully depressed: Brilliant firing each time no matter how the lever is operated. Makes a satisfying twang as the blade locks. Nice.

You are all right. Thanks a million. May you live for a thousand years.

All the best,

Steve
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natcherly
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Post by natcherly »

oregon wrote:May you live for a thousand years.
To hear some talk around here, he already has :lol:
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mrbigg
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Post by mrbigg »

oregon - i had six LLO's with the same problem - and i found the best cure was a low-tech aproach! take a large flathead screwdriver and put it between the liners at the tang end of the knife and give it a bit of persuation left and right - similar to bill's advice to reef the blade back and forth sideways...this way uses a bit more leverage, plus you won't slice yourself to ratsh!t :lol:

this method fixed all of my bad ones - which seems common with these - pesonally i think they are put together too tight, with little or no tolerance.
also many times i've found the blade is thicker than the backspring...
oregon
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Post by oregon »

Thank you for the tip mrbigg. And I thought it was just me, too much cleaning and waxing, and just mine, bought inexpensively, $65, over the net.

Vagrant, I'm happy to have a LLO. Bill Deshivs walks the earth like a giant in my opinion.

I have solved all problems with the knives as I've put them under glass in a box. $10 black box, with a glass face, from Target. They have a good assortment, wood and other material, of deep window box frames. Some are compartmentalized. Some have hangers installed on the back for wall mounting. The prices top out at less than twenty. This, however, is a short-term solution because it is only a matter of time before they all must be worked, cleaned and messed with.

Otherwise, I want an eleven inch stiletto (maybe from Tiny, which would be my first purchase there). Either imitation ivory or stag. I've never seen the imitation ivory in person. Probably dagger blade but I think that closing it may be problematic, unlike closing a bayonet blade. I've never actually closed a dagger stiletto blade before.

In person, does the imitation ivory look cheap while the stag looks rich? And, in actual use, is it a pain to close the dagger blade vs the bayonet blade?

All the best,

Steve
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mrbigg
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Post by mrbigg »

no difference mr oregon!

dagger blades are only sharp one side! :wink:
but IMHO they don't need to be sharp either side :twisted:
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Bill DeShivs
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Post by Bill DeShivs »

Oregon
I'll be polite. I think the imitation ivory looks like shit. Not all imitation ivory, just the stuff on the Italian knives. This is just my opinion. I love ivory, and there is much synthetic ivory that looks great, but it must not be available in Maniago!
Bill
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mrbigg
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Post by mrbigg »

:lol: bill i have to agree with you on the immitation ivory :D
i'd rather have pearlex or any other plastic other than im. ivory!
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