Soldering / Brazing

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Jeff
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Re: Soldering / Brazing

Post by Jeff »

Thanks.
The Granger hard braze rod that I showed you (not the soft solder I mentioned) must have some other hard alloy in there because they are almost as sturdy as a key ring. These make more of a weld after sanding at a temperature that goes beyond the soft soldering I do hence the word brazing. Your type of solder work is different but sounds similar :D
Thanks for sharing all of this Bill. I'm sure alot of us are curious.
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Bill DeShivs
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Re: Soldering / Brazing

Post by Bill DeShivs »

The rods you use are mostly copper. These rods don't flow well.
The brazing is the same, but the brazing rod is different.
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Jeff
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Re: Soldering / Brazing

Post by Jeff »

Which leads us to "plugging" liner holes
I pictured "forging brass into the hole ( possibly a bonding compound) and redrilling. How wrong am I?
Thanks
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Re: Soldering / Brazing

Post by Bill DeShivs »

Taper a pin, insert it in the hole, solder, clip it on both sides, and grind/file it flat.
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Jeff
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Re: Soldering / Brazing

Post by Jeff »

Thanks Bill! I can't think of anything else :lol:
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Re: Soldering / Brazing

Post by Bill DeShivs »

Think of it as "hard soldering" rather than brazing. Silver solder flows. It's the same method that jewelers use to size rings, and it is used to solder carbide saw teeth on. Almost as strong as welding.
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Jeff
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Re: Soldering / Brazing

Post by Jeff »

Thanks alot for all of these tips Bill. I keep wanting to push for turning this in to a photo tutorial, after you've progressed on one and have your favorite photos of the process may be a good idea. I'd really like to see something like that.
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big_ski
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Re: Soldering / Brazing

Post by big_ski »

Great topic!

Bill, I want to attach nickel steel to weldable steel or whatever the hell Menards means by that term. should I braze or solder? What would be the effects of the torch temps on the metals? Thanks!
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Re: Soldering / Brazing

Post by Bill DeShivs »

The steel will be in the annealed state after silver soldering, but the joint will sure hold.
Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler
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Factory authorized repairs for:
Latama, Mauro Mario, LePre, Colonial, Kabar, Flylock, Schrade Cut Co., Presto, Press Button, Hubertus, Grafrath, Kuno Ritter knives, Puma, Burrell Cutlery.
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