"Banana blade" general solution?

spindizzy · Post by **spindizzy** » Tue Oct 05, 2004 6:25 pm

I just got a 15" Fox. It's good construction, kicks ok, locks positive, but it isn't perfectly straight. No, not what you'd call a banana blade but not perfect. When we discussed my Campolin, Bill came up with the idea to shave off a bit off the blade to make it sit deeper in the backspring hole. The Fox does not sit with the pin all the way into the hole. Is this a general solution?

Hope you understand what I'm talking about. Btw I bought a set of diamond files today, they cost 40 bucks but I figure it'll be worth it.

Cheers,
Thomas

Teddy · Post by **Teddy** » Tue Oct 05, 2004 7:23 pm

Hello again..

If your Fox 15 locks up reliably ... and the locktab sits nice and flush with the blade when the knife is open .... you shouldn't be doing any filing.

Filing the blade per Bill's suggestion will not help get it straighter... only sit a high tab down properly.... if it veers off to one side looking down the BACK of the knife it's quite easy to put right.

Getting that knife dead straight is a much more difficult task than those you've previously chosen not to undertake. .. blades a bit short of fully open (slight banana) are very common in stilettos and a high level of skill is required to put them right .... very few bother.

All the best
Teddy

magnum · Post by **magnum** » Tue Oct 05, 2004 7:52 pm

Spindizzy-I have several that have a slight banana and like Teddy said if it locks up reliably and the locktab is flush with the blade when open don't bother it.Unfortunately this is common in all stilettos and swing guards for that matter cause i have a swinger with a slight banana.If you are not satisfied contact knifeshop and they will make it good.My .02 cents worth.

Post by **natcherly** » Tue Oct 05, 2004 9:11 pm

Teddy wrote:if it veers off to one side looking down the BACK of the knife it's quite easy to put right.

What is the best procedure of doing this? I'm afraid that trying to bend the blade, especially a 15", could break or torque something if not done correctly.

Teddy · Post by **Teddy** » Tue Oct 05, 2004 9:31 pm

natcherly wrote:
Teddy wrote:if it veers off to one side looking down the BACK of the knife it's quite easy to put right.
What is the best procedure of doing this? I'm afraid that trying to bend the blade, especially a 15", could break or torque something if not done correctly.

I just use a chest of drawers to hold the blade (I ask it nicely first) inserting the blade right up to the hilt (bolster) and heave down on the handle as close to the bolster as I can get ... checking the knife after each heave... the first few times nothing happens because you ain't pushing down hard enough.... but you absolutely HAVE to take it steady... or the knife is easily ruined... after a few progressively heavier "heaves" you'll feel the knife give a bit... repeat (or not) as necessary... it works for me... obviously if one has a workshop one doesn't prat around with makeshift items... one uses a vice .. or similar.. I have however not tried this technique on a 15 ... but it's easy enough with 11's and 13's .. though it does loosen 'em up a bit...

If the blade itself has a slight curve to it the same method works... but you put less (variable) of the blade into your chest of drawers... or vice...

All the best
Teddy

ragtime red · Post by **ragtime red** » Wed Oct 13, 2004 1:13 pm

natcherly wrote:
Teddy wrote:if it veers off to one side looking down the BACK of the knife it's quite easy to put right.
What is the best procedure of doing this? I'm afraid that trying to bend the blade, especially a 15", could break or torque something if not done correctly.

I know this is something that upsets people, but the truth of the matter is that .001-.002" error can cause it. With mass produced parts, and hand assembly, it is going to happen. I have fixed this by taking the knife apart and redrilling the pivot pin hole in the liners and bolsters. By using an oversize bit (1/8") and making sure the extra size moves the whole forward or backward, (depending on whether the blade is down or up) and then redrilling the blade with a 1/8" carbon bit and using a 1/8" pin for reassembly. It is a PIA, and you have to be very careful, the drill bit wants to center itself in the original hole. Like was advised by others, I'd leave it alone and try to live with it. I have done this successfully a few times, however.